|How to Tune Up Your Boomerang
A boom's flight can be greatly influenced by the tuning of the
boomerang itself. Minor changes in the angle of attack of each arm and the
amount of positive or negative dihedral can drastically alter the flight path of
your boomerang. Tuning is an advanced process, which should not be undertaken by
beginners. The best way to tune a boomerang is to heat it up; this loosens the
glue and makes the boom more flexible. The best way to heat a 'rang is to use a
microwave oven. Caution: heating a boomerang in this manner will affect the
finish of the boom. If you are tuning for the perfect flight, the trade-off is
worth it, in my opinion. Never microwave a boomerang that has been weighted! Use
caution when handling a heated boomerang; it will be hot.
The following tuning changes will affect the boomerang's flight as described.
You should only tune for one characteristic at a time. Only small changes are
needed to greatly change the flight.
One note on tuning and warp. Some boomerangs I make are pre-tuned for a desired
flight. Do not confuse a tuned boomerang with a warped one. The best way to
distinguish a warped boom from a tuned one is to know the boom. Throw it often;
if for some reason it flies radically different from the last session, it may
have warped or had pressure against it since the last time you went throwing.
Cold tuning can be done in the field, but the tune may not last. If the
boomerang is made of plywood, you can warm it before tuning to help "set" the
Positive Dihedral will add lift to the 'rang, and will produce a higher flight.
Negative Dihedral will decrease lift on the 'rang, and will produce a lower
Positive Attack will shorten the overall flight of the boomerang.
Negative Attack will increase the overall flight of the boomerang.
Mix and match until you have the boom tuned to your throwing style. Remember
that you have tuned the boom to fly a certain way under a certain type of wind
condition. Don't expect it to fly perfectly in all conditions.
Below are some e-mails I gleaned from BoomerangTalk or RangList
Fast Catch Tuning - John Cross, Calgary
I thought I'd throw in some input on fixing problems with tribladers - fast
catches in particular. Jason had some good tips but I figured I'd post what I
know on the subject. Sorry I'm a bit slow but you know - busy with work yadda
yadda yadda. What follows is fairly extensive. It covers most of what I know and
can recall off the top of my head. A lot of these are little tidbits I've
collected off the likes of Ted Bailey, Rusty, Gel, Dan Neelands, Eric Darnell,
Doug Dufrense, Mark Weary and probably a few others not to mention some of the
better web sites out there. Thanks to everybody in advance for sharing. They
gave me the starting points to work with but all that follows is what works for
me from experiments on my own. The ideas didn't necessarily come from talk about
performance booms but often just from comments on carving tips that I tried and
applied to my booms.
There are always a number of different ways of achieving any effect on a boom.
Sounds like you have the basics of twist and bending tuning for your fast catch
fairly well down. For anybody who doesn't know how to do it, I find the best way
is to pretend you have a two blader (think of it as just a two-blader with a big
elbow). I mark the other two arms like I would if it was a two-blader. One is
the lead arm and the other is the dingle arm. Since it is now a two-blader
(although a funny looking one) you can now use Dr. Fred's tuning method. The
"lead" arm controls range (adjust with AOA) and height at the beginning of the
flight (adjust with dihedral). The "dingle" arm controls accuracy (AOA) and the
height in the later part of the flight (again adjust with dihedral). Bending and
twisting can usually get you pretty close to having a really good flying boom
but sometimes there are problems you just can't seem to fix. Then again, you
might want to try to fix them another way just for fun. Below are the problems I
could think of you can have with your FC boom and some alternatives to bending
and twisting you might want to try out to get your stick performing just right.
Tinkering like this has provided me with many hours of enjoyment and
frustration. Hopefully this will save you some of the later.
Flies too high
This is usually fixed by bending negative dihedral into one or more of the arms.
There are a few other ways of doing this too. You can carve it into your boom by
extending the trailing edge around the tips. Go out with a piece of sandpaper
and take it off slowly right at the tip. You'll be impressed how you can control
the level of the flight. Look at an advance FC by Eric Darnell and you will see
what I mean. Compare the way the tip is carved to that of a sport boom such as
an Alpine by Colorado. The sport boom will likely have the leading edge extended
around the tip rather than the trailing edge. If you forgot your file at home,
grab some tape and a few coins. Tape them about mid point along the arms on the
bottom of the boom. I generally find I get best results by using two dimes and a
penny. I also find it flies too low if they are all on the bottom so one of the
dimes is usually taped on top of the boom. If you don't have any change in your
pocket, make a flap using your tape (I personally like small flaps about an inch
wide and 1/8 high) and place it on the leading edge of one arm so it is sort of
pointing forward and up a bit. I use this for my accuracy booms since it can
really kill the flight just before it lands so it has no forward motion left in
it. Holes can also help out if it's flying too high.
Flies too low
The ordinary fix is a bit of positive dihedral. Too much negative angle of
attack can also cause it. To carve it into your boom undercut the leading edge.
If you extend the undercut around the tip of the boom you get more effect so far
as height goes. Adding weight to the top of the boom works too. Two on top and
one on bottom for starters generally fixes it for me. You can also try putting a
small flap on the bottom of the boom. A biggish flap in the center part of the
boom is often used in trick catches and can help you out if you have a TC that
doesn't stabilize particularly well. Seems to make it easier to get it high too.
Not enough range
The bend and twist method is to twist in a bit of negative angle of attack. You
could have carved a less efficient airfoil but that is something that is hard to
do after the boom has been carved. You could either take a bit more off the
leading edge (give it more bevel) or carve a tiny bit of trailing edge undercut.
I have had bad luck with carving in trailing edge undercut. Seems to make the
boom perform erratically. It is usually much easier to add a bit of weight. Lead
tape near the tips or coins closer to the center will often work. The last trick
is to put a small flap near the leading edge on the bottom of the boom. A
properly places flap can have a surprising amount of effect on the range.
Too much range
This one is easy. Instead of twisting in positive angle of attack just undercut
the leading edges a bit. If you have weights or flaps on it, try moving them
closer to the center so that the effect they have on the boom is less.
Flies way past you on return or comes in too fast to want to be in front of Add
drag. Rubber bands are my favorite for on the field adjustments. Flaps or Velcro
work too. For a more permanent fix, drill holes in the tips or blunt up the
leading edges. You could also try throwing softer.
Doesn't make it all the way back
Probably either too much drag (stops before it gets all the way back) or not
enough dihedral (crashes into the ground halfway around). Either reduce the drag
(cover holes, take off flaps etc) or use the techniques to get it to fly higher
listed above. You should be able to tell which one is the problem. If your arm
can handle it, you can power your way through this problem but don't do it if
you are making an endurance boom. You'll wear yourself out.
By this I mean it is hard to control, seems to fly differently from one throw to
the next, is affected too much by slight changes in the wind etc. My first plan
of attack is always to add a bit of drag - same as if it was flying way past me.
A rubber band or two will do wonders. Play around with placement for the best
effect. You can blunt the leading edges (make them more square) too. Failing
that, weight will do wonders stabilizing the flight of a FC. Minor problems put
a piece of lead tape near the center. For more extreme cases use coins.
Lays down too fast or not fast enough
Design usually determines this. The degree of forward sweep of the arms has a
lot of impact. I seem to remember someone telling me that drilling a hole in the
center affected this too but I can't remember which problem it fixed. Doesn't
happen too much with my FC booms so I don't have a good fix for it. If anybody
does have one I'd love to hear it.
Runs out of spin
You probably have either too much AOA twisted into the boom or too much drag.
The only fixes I know are to either reduce the amount of AOA (if that's the
problem) or reduce the drag by covering the holes or taking off flaps etc.
Boom doesn't come in straight
I've have FC booms that had this strange little turn right at the end of the
flight. It makes them hard to predict where they are going to be when you catch
it. I like mine to come in straight and predictable. A little lead tape at the
mid point of each wing sometimes helps. The other trick I've used is to either
blunt the center section of the boom so it is more squarish or to carve in a bit
of undercut in the same area. I haven't figured out which fix to use in what
situation. I generally try one way and if it gets worse, I go for the other one.
Pretty scientific eh?
Boom is not fast enough
Take off all weight, all drag inducing devices, tape over holes, carve in
concave undercut on the bottom, cave as much airfoil as the boom will allow
(sharp leading edges) and throw as hard as you can. I can't control a boom like
this and need a slower one just so I can catch it. If you want to go for this
approach, wear a glove and body armor. Be prepared to run a lot.
This should be enough to keep you busy for a couple of throwing sessions
anyways. :) If anything doesn't make sense just let me know and I'll try to
explain it better. Otherwise, just catch up with me at Twin Peaks this year and
I'll explain in person. If anybody has anything to add, please do.
I was going to try to throw out a few ideas on flaps and rubber bands as Rusty
requested but This sort of got out of hand and I've typed about all I can for
tonight. If there is interest, I'll post something in about a week when I get
back from holidays that will go over the basics of how to do it (again based on
my experiences) and what I think is causing it.
Good luck. Have fun.
Throwing your Golem Series MTA
Your Golem II will have been tuned in the field prior to
shipping. Of course, some change in
the tune can happen over time with changes in temperature or humidity.
Also, if the boomerang is pressed or twisted during storage, it will
change the flight. The thin
aircraft plywood is fairly durable, but can be detuned fairly easily.
To get the feel for the MTA flight, try throwing on a very
calm day. An MTA can climb high and
catch a breeze, which will take it higher and land it in a park across town or
down the road. It is best to start
with easier conditions if you are new to MTA.
The Golem II likes to be thrown about 30 degrees off the
horizon with a vertical or over-vertical release. Give it a good spin on release, and enough forward velocity
to make it climb to its peak. DO
NOT try to throw it to altitude.
This style of MTA is a climber, and if you throw it too high, it will
destabilize and start to ďdeath spiralĒ and drop out.
To start, try throwing with less power and a good spin.
You will not get a high flight, but you will see what the flight should look
It should climb to a stall and begin a slow, hovering descent.
Once you get used to throwing the MTA, try adding some
power to the release Ė but remember to keep it vertical.
Tweaking the tune
Be careful when tuning the boomerang.
The thin wood or phenolic will break if bent too quickly.
If the boomerang falls quickly, or doesnít climb very high,
try adding some positive dihedral [Upward curve] to the long arm. [Lead Arm]
This will help it to get a higher flight, and also help it float longer.
If the boomerang begins to spiral or rock during its
flight, try adding a very small amount of dihedral to the very tip of the short
arm. [Dingle Arm] A small amount
will make a big difference. Try
only one thing at a time, and observe the change to the flight.
To make the boomerang fly further out, try adding a bit of
negative Angle of Attack [AoA] to the dingle arm. Do this by twisting down on the front of the arm.
Again, a little twist will make a large difference to the flight.
If you have any problems or questions about tuning the
MTA, please donít hesitate to contact me by e-mail [at
my request page] or by phone [309.793.9885] and I will try to coach you
through the process. I have also
included some tuning instructions from John Cross - just below.
He has given me some very good instruction, and I am passing it along.
His tuning instructions assume you have a completely un-tuned MTA, so
take this into consideration when reading them.
tune an MTA - John
This is the process I use to tune up my wood MTAs. Tuning snakes or other pax
MTAs can be a bit different but this should work for most traditional Bailey
style MTAs. I get best results when I am tuning from scratch. Most other
directions tend to troubleshoot flight problems in an already tuned MTA. Use
their advice if your boom is already close to being tuned. If you canít fix
the problem, it is sometimes easier to flatten it out and start over than to try
to fix a bad flying MTA Ė particularly if you are new to tuning
MTAs are the probably the hardest booms to tune. If you can tune an MTA, most
other booms are relatively easy. Practice and doing it yourself are the only
ways to learn how to do it. The process below uses the tuning method in which
changes to the lead arm correspond to the first part of the flight and changes
to the dingle arm correspond to changes in the second half of the flight. Tuning
is done by twisting or bending past the desired position and holding for a few
seconds then releasing. Iím assuming you are familiar with terms like AOA
(angle of attack) and dihedral.
A quick explanation of the pictures. The curved part of
the line represents the flight path of the MTA after each step is completed. The
dot on the pictures represents when the MTA sets up into a hover. The straight
line below represents the hover itself.
Step 1 - Getting Started
The MTA throw is very vertical (no layover) and higher than usual. When tuning
from scratch, initially aim about twice as high as you would for an ordinary
boom. As tuning progresses, you can aim even higher but this is a good place to
start. Throw with medium power but lots of spin.
An untuned MTA will initially fly quite similar to a regular boom. It should do
a nice circle and end up in a hover at the end of the flight. If it doesnít
turn (goes straight), twist positive AOA into the lead arm. Too much AOA and you
will kill the spin at the end, you only need enough to make it come around. If
it seems like itís taking way too much AOA to get it to turn, try putting a
bit of positive AOA into the dingle arm as well. Once it is turning fine,
concentrate on the hover at the end.
You want to make sure your hover is stable. Rocking or spiraling really robs
time from an MTA flight. A slight twist of negative AOA on the dingle arm will
often stabilize the hover from rocking. A bit extra twist of positive AOA into
the lead arm can help ward off the dreaded death spiral but only do it if you
are getting a death spiral Ė too much lift on the lead arm can rob you of
height later on. All booms are different so there are no hard and fast rules
here. If yours seems to be getting worse when you make a change or doesnít
seem to be getting any better no matter how extreme you get, try backing off the
change and doing the opposite.
One bit of advice that seems kind of obvious is donít ďfixĒ problems that
donít exist. Make each change either to fix a consistent problem or to get a
bit extra out of the flight. Itís also wise to do a number of throws before
you decide to make a change. Make the change when youíre sure itís the
and not your throw. Another tip is to avoid doing anything to the elbow. Changes
there can result in some very hard to fix
If all goes well, you should now have an MTA that is flying like a regular boom
with a nice stable hover at the end like this.
Step 2 - Getting it to Fly Higher
Next thing you want to do is to get it to fly higher. The higher it goes,
the better times you can achieve. Start by elevating your aim until you reach
the highest throw you can do and still maintain a stable hover at the end. Next,
start bending dihedral into the lead arm in the last half to third of the arm.
The same throw will now make the boom fly quite a bit higher initially but it
will seem to come back down a bit before stabilizing. Do not worry yet that it
doesnít stabilize very high. We are trying to maximize the initial height
gained in the throw. I also try to bend in as much dihedral at the very tip (the
last inch or so) that I can. For an extra bit of height, try twisting negative
AOA into the last inch or two of the lead arm. As you increase the height with
this step, youíll likely notice
that you can aim your throw even higher and still maintain the stable hover.
When changes no longer seem to be making your throws go any higher, stop and
move onto the next step. If you add too much, you may not be able to stabilize the boom again.
It is important to note that after each tuning change and test throw to make
sure that the hover is stable. If at any point it starts to rock or death
spiral, make the required change to make the hover stable before you try to add
any more dihedral. By the end of this step, your boom should be flying something
Step 3 - Getting it to Stabilize High
To get your MTA to stabilize at itís maximum height, start adding
positive dihedral to the dingle arm. Again concentrate on the last half of the
arm and the tip. As you add dihedral to the dingle arm, the height at which the
boom stabilizes will gradually increase. Eventually, the height of stabilizing
may even be higher than your maximum height in the second step. It will spiral
upwards until it reaches its maximum height and set up into a nice stable hover.
As before, correct any stability problems that arise before trying to add more
dihedral. Stop as soon as any changes you make either have a
detrimental effect that you canít correct for or have no effect at all. Viola.
You have a tuned MTA.
Step 4 Ė Locking in the Tune
Now that your MTA is tuned, you probably want it to stay that way. Give it a
light coat of paint. I prefer black as it shows up the best against the sky.
Let the paint dry over night then take it out again the next time you get the
chance. Try bending in more dihedral into the lead arm then the dingle arm to
maximize the height you are getting. Go slowly so you donít overdo it as you
should be pretty close to an optimum tune. When you are satisfied, give it
another light coat of paint. The two coats of paint will greatly help to
stabilize the tune. I have wood MTAs that I have carried to numerous tournaments
that have not needed any tuning for years.
These are some suggestions I have picked up over the years. Some come from
direct experience, others come from the experts. There are lots of different
opinions on how to tune MTAs and even how to fix given problems. Suggestions are
in order of what I would try first to fix each problem.
Typically, a given problem has more than one possible correction. Each
suggestion has its place and sometimes one will work and another will not.
Experience and experimentation is the only way to teach you which correction is
the one to use. There are very few people out there who can look at a flight and
fix the problem in one or two steps. Don't expect instant results but be
prepared to spend some time with each MTA you tune to get it to fly right.
Eventually you will develop an eye for what is wrong and can jump to the correct
tune quicker. In some cases, it may actually be faster and easier to stop, go
flatten out your MTA and start over again from
scratch (this can particularly be the case if the elbow region of your MTA is
warped - slight twists in the elbow area can have some very strange effects and
it can be very hard to identify and correct problems). If you can't get it right
no matter what you do, try contacting an experienced thrower to help you. If you
can attend a contest, there are usually many throwers more than happy to give
you a hand to get your booms flying right. Any problem you try to correct should
be consistent before you try to fix it. MTA problems are often just throwing
problems. Remember to minimize layover (release should be near vertical for most
MTAs) and aim high. For learning how to throw an MTA, try to get your hands on
one that is already tuned. Don't try tuning until you know what you're doing in
the throwing department and can throw consistently.
For learning how to tune MTAs, I'd initially stick with the simple shapes such
as the Bailey style booms. When you change dihedral on an MTA with swept wings,
it can also effect the AOA of that wing. Starting off with simple shapes lets
you make changes and know exactly what the change you made actually did. If
there was still a maker of a linen phenolic MTA out there, I'd recommend it for
using as your teacher. Linen phenolic is easy to tune and nearly unbreakable. My
next choice is wood. Leave pax booms until you have a bit of experience under
your belt. If you are making your own, you don't need to make super smooth or
fully profiled airfoils. In many cases, doing so can actually hurt the
performance of your MTA and cause it to death spiral. Just use the simple,
standard, semi-crude airfoil used on other booms. Some excellent performing MTAs
have relatively crude air foiling yet can achieve some pretty impressive times.
Tuning is what gets an MTA to fly the way it does.
MTA Tuning Tips for Specific Problems
MTA does not get high enough
- aim higher
- add more dihedral to the lead arm - twist negative AOA into the tip of the
lead arm - add small weights to underside of tips and elbow (use lead tape)
MTA gets high but comes down a bit before stabilizing
- add dihedral to the dingle arm
- reduce dihedral to lead arm slightly
MTA goes straight and doesn't turn
- add positive AOA to the lead arm
- add positive AOA to the dingle arm
- reduce dihedral in the lead arm
MTA rocks side to side or destabilizes during hover
- try throwing using the other arm
(choosing dingle or lead seems to have a greater effect with MTAs over
other types of booms)
- aim lower
- adjust AOA to dingle arm
(may need positive or negative AOA depending on the situation - negative
AOA is a more common fix)
- reduce dihedral to lead arm
- reduce dihedral in dingle arm
- experiment with turbulators
(position on leading edge of dingle arm and mid section of leading arm)
- add small weights (try lead arm first - use a ľ inch dot of lead tape)
MTA goes into a death spiral
(may stabilize first then work into at death spiral)
- try throwing using the other arm
- reduce power of throw
- aim lower
- add positive AOA to the lead arm
- add positive AOA to the dingle arm
- MTA may be over-tuned - reduce dihedral on one or both arms
- blunt trailing edges (they may be too sharp)
- experiment with turbulators
(position on leading edge of dingle arm and mid section of leading arm)
- add small weights (try dingle arm first - use ľ inch dot of lead tape)
MTA loses spin
- check to make sure you aren't twisting the MTA on release
- reduce AOA to the lead arm
- reduce AOA to the dingle arm
MTA seems to fly perfect but sinks too fast
- reduce AOA on one or both arms
- experiment with turbulators
(position on leading edge of dingle arm and mid section of leading arm)
MTA floats out of bounds
- add a tiny amount of drag (small rubber bands)
- adjust throw to wind direction (throw either more into the wind or more off
- reduce height by reducing dihedral on the lead arm
MTA climbs too high, stalls, and crashes down
- reduce AOA on the lead arm
- throw with less layover
- throw with less power
Tips for Snakes
Snakes are great MTAs but are a bit different from most other MTAs. Snakes
follow the same general rules for throwing and tuning as other MTAs but need
special consideration on a few points. I personally find them a bit harder to
tune than a wood Bailey style MTA.
The throw for a snake is a bit different than with regular MTAs. They can handle
a lot more layover. They also like to be thrown lower than other MTAs. The throw
is more like a high aussie round type of throw.
Tuning is fairly similar to regular MTAs. Extra care should be taken to make
sure the elbow region is flat. The lead arm and the dingle arm should both have
some dihedral although the amount required can vary greatly from boom to boom.
Snakes also like lots of posistive AOA on the lead arm to get them stable.
Because of the curve in the lead arm, when you add dihedral to the lead arm, you
are also adding negative AOA. You need extra AOA to overcome that. I try to add
AOA in the last couple of inches of the arm for this reason. If the dingle arm
has too much dihedral it will climb very quick and not go out very far in front
of you. If there is not enough you won't get much height. A tiny bit of negative
AOA at the tip of the lead arm can get you a bit of extra height but too much
will de-stabilize your boom.
Tips for Quirls
Quirls typically don't need much tinkering with AOA as other booms. Most of the
tuning on ones I've seen is just dihedral (and lots of it). The required AOA
comes the curve of the arm and the effect that comes naturally when you change
the dihedral. As with other MTAs, they can be prone to death spirals if the
airfoils are too profiled. Weighting using lead tape is one way of correcting
this problem. Quirls don't seem to do much until you get really close to the
right tune, then they are virtually unmatched for how high you can get them.
John Cross - Calgary, AB
Doubler Tuning - Chet
Ok, I tried to find my old file on tuning doublers which i wrote in 1984??? The
concept remains exactly the same. Couldn't find it (they don't make that program
anymore... gasp!) so here is a step by step guide from the top (of my head)
PS: If you order doublers from me you get the tuning instructions with
pictures and everything!...
1. Start by heating them over hot air popcorn popper or alternatively, use
microwave... on high 10 -15 seconds - maximum time. Gently bend the outsider
tips up so that when it lies flat on table, the tips are up about 1/8" to 3/16"
(3-4mm). Tune insider so that the tips are just barely off, or start flat.
2. I weight the outside tips of the outsider and weight the insiders about
1" further in towards center. I weight all three tips of each boom either with
sunken weights that lie flush with surface, or with lead tape covered with
plastic or duct tape to keep lead from me! Option B: Gary weights bottoms of
outsider with pennies and TOP of insider with dime... less weight as an
alternative method which also induces drag...a good thing for wind.
3. Throw the booms several times and see what's happening. Here's
what I want and how I get it...
I want insider to fly lower and more to left of outsider (i.e.: turn
quicker). I want the outsider to be farther out and higher, BUT I want it just
behind the insider, in view as I watch both. If it is off on some different
orbit, that is no good. I decide first if either boomerang is flying nicely. If
it is I leave that one alone and adjust the other to match it. If neither is
well, then I start tuning both to approach optimal flight.
If I want either boom to fly more to the left, I twist positive AOA into
one or more arms. I could do this to insider if it is not turning fast enough,
or to outsider if it is flying way off to right of insider and not turning fast
enough to stay in view. I also do this to insider if they are "clicking" to pull
the insider off of the outsider on launch.
If I want either boom to fly more to right, I twist neg AOA into one or
more tips of that boom.
If I want more height, I bend more dihedral into one or more arms and if i
want lower, I go neg or flatten out the arm(s) a little) I try to only do one
boom at a time so I can see the effect of one thing and how it helped or did
If I need the insider to come down faster, I go to a flap or self-stick
Velcro dot or more on arm(s). Also drill more holes in that helps.
OK, so now I know how to tune any boom to go farther or more right
(negative AOA); shorter or more to L (+AOA); higher (dihedral) or lower (flatten
it or negative dihedral). Now what I do is simply tune one and the other to get
the separation I want in height and distance so that they are coming back to the
same place but 5-8 seconds apart.
It is not as difficult as it sounds and I do a lot of the initial work in
wing design and weighting and drilling before I ever start to field tune. Now
many of my sets fly great on the first throw before I even fine tune them
because I've pre-drilled, weighted and bent them in the shop.
1. Holes in tips of insider, none in outsider
2. weights farther out on outsider, closer in on insider
3. more positive dihedral on outsider, less on insider
Then tune them to fly like a pair of jets, outsider always farther out and
higher and insider coming down quicker. Once you get pretty nice flights, the
easiest way to get more separation in the amount of time you have between them
is to drag the insider until you can still get it easily but it comes down
pretty quick. If you try to get more time between by cranking up outsider, you
end up with possible "blow out".
Carlota tuning: (Bill
Wachespress - Laurence, KS)
I assume your airfoils follow the plan. Don't go overboard on the airfoils. It's
easy to do. Gary Broadbent stresses that you want to leave straight vertical
edges wherever you don't have airfoil, so don't round them off too much, just
take the sharp edge off with fine sandpaper. This is especially true near the
center of the boomerang.
Tuning is VERY FLAT. A tiny bit goes a long way. Wings may be SLIGHTLY twisted
so the leading edge (front edge as it spins) is A LITTLE higher than the
trailing edge (back edge as it spins). BUT this is a tweaky thing. (It makes me
crazy!) A wing might not be twisted, or may even be twisted the OTHER way. Did
you read the recent post by John Cross on extending Fred Malmberg'a tuning
system? If not, email me directly and I'll send a copy to you, so we can both
puzzle over it.
Unless someone tells me otherwise, I think you want to throw... high, hard, and
vertical, with lots of spin. When it comes floating straight down to you, you
are supposed to catch it with one hand under your leg or behind your back or
something. That's what it's for.
If it DOESN'T float down to you, and you need to chase it, or it goes into a
nasty spiral, welcome to the club! There are all sorts of corrections you can
make for all sorts of problems, but it's too much for me to tackle right now. Go
to the field with some lead tape from a golf shop or from the Boomerang Man, and
a few #33 rubberbands, and some good quality electrical tape, the thin stretchy
kind. A rubberband on the center may help stabilize it. Lead tape on the tips
helps it maintain spin, and get more range and height. You'll be surprised at
the difference. Tiny electrical tape flaps can help too. Somebody give us a URL
for Trick Catch tuning! In wind, add more rubberbands and more lead. Wash your
hands really well after handling that lead, and before eating; more poison!
Now let's hear from you throwers who really CAN fine tune Trick Catch booms! HOW
DO YOU DO IT?!
Please send snail-mail to:
932 21st Street
Rock Island, IL 61201
Or call me at: Ph.# 309.793.9885
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